Glossary of Hat(D-F)帽子术语D-F
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GlossaryofHatDDEERSTALKER-Sportsman’stweed,orcloth,capwithvisorsinfrontandbackandearflapsoutsideandtiedontop.Crownlinedwithscarletpoplinandreversible.Aswornbydeerhunters.AlsoSHERLOCKHOLMESCAP,FOREANDAFT,DUCKHUNTERS.DERBY(derbi)(British,darbi)In1888,the12thEarlofDerbyvisitedtheUnitedStateswearingastiff,hard,brownfelthatthathaddome-shapedcrownandanarrow,aslightlycurledbrim.Thissetafashionnamedafterhim.AlsoBILLYCOCK,BOWLER,CLOCKER,COKES.DISCOHAT(Late1970’s)Asmallhatwornabovetheforeheadandtiltedtooneside,heldonbyanelasticorribbonbandinback.Thediscothequewasapopularplacetoobservefashiontrends.DOLLHAT-Namegiventosmallhatsinvariousstylesandmaterials.Usuallywornforwardandtiltedabovetherighteye.In18c.England,afeminineversionoftheMACARONI.In1930,ahatdesignedbySchiaparelli.FrankOlivebroughtoutaversionin1979.DORMEUSE(Frenchfor"sleeper")In1770’s,acapofshirredlawnwornatnight,withplaitedribbon,heldonbyaribbontiedontopofthehead.Fordaytimewear,theDORMEUSEBONNETcameinmanydesigns.DUCKBILL-Bonnethavingalong,high,curvingvisor.Usuallytiedonwithribbonunderthechin.WornbyMarvelueseofFrenchDirectoirePeriod(1795,deerektwar).AlsoJOCKEYCAP,DIRECTOIREBONNET.DUTCHCAP-Closefitting,pointedcrown,capwithbrimrollingupandflaringoutatthesides.Dutchwoman’scapoflaceormuslin.AlsoVOLENDAMCAP.GlossaryofHatEEGYPTIANCROWN-IllustrationoftheEgyptianHelmetCrown,fromtheportraitbustofQueenNofretete,DynastyXVII,c.1372-1355B.C.About3000B.C.,KingNarmerunitedUpperandLowerEgypt.Hecombinedthetall,pointedATEFcrownofwhitefeltorwoolwiththeREDWICKERCROWN,whenheunitedthetwokingdoms.CrownswereoftendecoratedwiththeURAEUS(arearingviper)andwiththeANKHcrown(asignoflife).ESCOFFIN(14c.,15c.)Stuffedrollofvariousshapes.Originallyaturbanorheartshapedform,finallythetwo-hornedshapewornoveracaulandwithwimple,orboth.BeganasGOLDENNETCAUL,overacaul,finallytheESCOFFIONwassupplantedbytheHENNINwithveil(15c.)ETON(eeton)CapwornbyboysatEtonCollege,England.EUGENIEHAT(ushaynee)TheEMPRESSHATof1859.StyleofEmpressEugenie,wifeofNapoleonIII.Arevivalofthisshapein1931wasworntiltedovertherighteye,andtrimmedwithostrichfeather.StylewornbyPrincessDianain1980.GlossaryofHatFFEDORA(fedoera)Men’ssoftfelthatwithbrimandlengthwisecreaseincrown,adoptedbywomen.ThenameFedorawasaftertheheroineofVictorianSardou’sdramapresentedinParisin1882.AlsoTYROLEANHAT,ALPINEHAT,HOMBURG.FERRONIERE-RenaissanceheaddressofOrientaldesignthathadajewelinmiddleofforehead,suspendedfromafinechainorribbonthatwastiedaroundthehead.Fashionrevivedatvarioustimes.FEZ-Redorblack,feltcapthatisshapedlikeatruncatedconeandtrimmedwithatassel.Turkishofficialdressfromearly19c.untiloutlawedin1923.StillworninotherpartsofthenearEast.GotitsnamefromFez,FrenchMorocco,wherejuiceofredberry,usedfordye,grewinvicinity.AlsoCHECHIA,TARBOOSH.FILLET-Abandwornaroundtheheadthatholdsthehairinplace.Intheearly13c.,thefilletwidensintoapillbox,.FLATCAP-SeeCITYFLATCAP,STATUTECAP.FONTANGE(FONTAHNZH)Styleoriginatedin1678,whentheelaborateheaddressofDuchessdeFontangewasdisarrangedduringaroyalhunt.Shetiedhercurlsupwithagarterofribbonandlaceandcreatedafashion.ShebecamemistressofLouisXIV.ThishighcurledcoiffurewithribbonloopslaterbecametheBONNETFONTAGE,withalacepeakinfrontandasmallcap.Fashionableuntil1714,whenLadysandwich,whilepresentedattheFrenchCourt,appearedinasimplelowhair-doandstartedanewfashion.InEnglandcalledtheTOWERCAP,COMMADE.FORAGECAP-Late19c.AmericanArmycap.SeeKEPI,CopyofGermancap.FRENCHHOOD(16c.)Worninvariousforms.TheFrenchHoodgraduallyreplacedtheGableHood.SmallerversionsoftheFrenchHoodappearedinHolbeinportraits.(LadyLee)FRONTLET(15C.)TheCALOTTEhadablackvelvetorgold,roundedorV-shapedloopshowingontheforeheadtowhichtheHENNINwasattached.TheFRONTLETenabledthewearertoadjusttheweightoftheHENNINwhichwaswornat40degreeangle.F)——此文章转载于互联网,文中观点与本网站无关,如有侵权请联系删除
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