Glossary of Hat(Q-T)帽子术语Q-T
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GlossaryofHatQQUAKEHAT(17c.)Men’shighquality,broadbrimmedhatoffeltorbeaver,worncockerorrolled.Colorsweregrayorbrown.QUAKERBONNET-Quakerwomenworeveryhighquality,simplifiedversionsoftheprevailingfashion.Blackhoodreplacedbythebeaverhatof18c.,thenthePOKEBONNETin19c.,inwhichthecrownwasgatherednotpleated.GlossaryofHatRRANELAGHMOB(18c.)Aformofmobcapadaptedfromthestylewornbymarketwomen.RETICULATEDHEADDRESS(14c.,15c.)Styleconsistingofbraidedcoilsofhairwornovereachear,coveredwithCAULSornetsoffinegoldorsilverwirestrungwithjewelsorpearls.LateraCRESPINEorbandwasadded.Manyformsevolved,basedonthepositionofthebraidsorbuns.ROBINHOODHAT(12c.)TheEnglishheroandoutlaw,RobinHood,wasportrayedwearingtheconicalhoodwithselfbrimthatwasturnedupatthebackandworndowntoapointinfront.Hatwastrimmedwithalongquill.ROUGHRIDERHAT-KhakifeltsoldierhatofSpanishAmericanWarof1898-99.Crownwascreasedandbrimwascockedononeside.NamedafterColonelTheodoreRoosevelt’stroopofRoughRiders.ROUNDLET(14c.,15c.)Stuffedrollofvelvet,wornturbanfashionoveraclosefittingcapthatcoveredallthehair.RUEBBENSorREMBRANDTHAT(17c.)Largefelthatdecoratedwithfeathersorflowers.Hatmadefashionablefromportraitsoftheperiod.SelfportraitbyRubenswithIsabellaBrantisanexampleofDutchcostume,Isabellawearsamannishhatofstrawoveralacecap.GlossaryofHatSSAILOR-Flat-crowned,straightbrimmedhat,usuallymadeofstraw.Grosgrainheadbandtrimmedwithflatbowattheside.AlsoBOATER,SENNIT.SHAKO(shako)Flat-topped,rigid,cylindricalmilitarydresshatwithavisorandtassels,plumesorpompoms.Originallyoffur,laterofleather.AlsoTARBUCKET.SHERHERDESS(18c.)Shallowcrownedhatwithwidebrimthatdipsinfrontandback.Madeoffinestraw(Leghorn).AlsoCHURCHILLS,GYPSY.SILKHAT(18c.,19c.)Blackhatofsilkplush,withahigh,cylindricalshapedcrownandastiffrollededgebrim.Asthebeaversupplydecreased,theSILKERbecamepopular.AlsoOPERAHAT,TOPPER,GIBUS.SKULLCAP-Closefittingcap,wornonthebackofthehead.BEANIE(American),CALOTTE(French),YARMULKES(MaleJew).SLOUCHCAP-Softfelthatwithbroadflexiblebriminvariousshapings.AlsoCIVILWAROFFICER’SHAT,HUNGARIANHAT,(madepopular,1853,LouisKossuth)GARBO,FEDORA.SNAPBRIM-Brimturnsdowninfrontandupinback.Madoffelt,straw,orfabric.Worntiltedslightlyovertherighteye.SNOOD-InMedievaltimes,thesupportthatholdsorcoversthehairwascalledaCAUL.In19c.,thesupportwascalledanet,sometimesSNOOD,andconsistedofanet-likebagatthebackoftheheadthatheldthehairorwig.In1930,Schiaparellidesignedasmallfurtoquetowhichachenillenetwasattachedinbacktoholdthehair(SNOOD).SOMBRERO(sombrayro)Spanishwordmeaninghat.Thehighcrownkeepstheheadcoolandthebroadbrimprotectsthewearerfromthesunorrain.Thepeon’ssombreroismadofstraw,thegentleman’soffelt.AlsoCOWBOYHAT,TEN-GALLONHAT,AMERICANSTETSON(1870).SOUTHWESTER(souweeter)Originallywaterproofhatofoiledcanvas.ThenrubberizesbytheMackintoshprocess.Nowthehatisusuallyplasticcoated.Originallywornbysailorsasprotectionagainsttheweather.Thebrimisbroaderinbacktoprotecttheneckinstormyweather.SPANISTOQUE(Mid16c.)Thecrownoftheberettookonheightwhenwornoverawiredframe.Thebrimwasnarrowandthehathadajeweledbandandfeathers.STATUECAP-Astatue,passedinEnglandin1571,toencouragethewoolworkers,madewearingthiscapcompulsoryfortheSTOCKINGCAP-Knitcapwithlongtaperingend(liripipr),usuallyfinishedwithapompomortassel.STOVEPIPEHAT(Late18c.)Hatoffelt,nappedwithbeaver,withtallroundedcrown,androlledsmallbrim.Evolvedintohighsilkhat.SUGARLOAF(14c.,15c.)Tallhatwithcurvedcrownthatresemblestheloafshapeintowhichrefinedsugarwasmade.SUNBONNET-Abonnetforwomenandgirlsthathasalargestiffbrimandaflapatthebackforprotectionfromthesun.GlossaryofHatTTAJ-PersianandArabicforcrown.Abrimless,tall,coneshapedcapofdistinction.TAMO’SHANTER-AvariationoftheScottishbonnetnamedafteracharacterinthepoembyRobertBurns.Capwasmadeofheavybrushedwoolwithacentertassel.TANAGRA-StrawhatwithatallconicalcrownfromIvc.,IIIc.,B.C.Greece.ExamplefromterracottastatuetteofawomanfromBoeotiontownofTanagra.AlsoPETASOS,THOLIA.TARBOOSH-Arabicforcap.Brimlessfeltorclothskullcap,wornbybothmenandwomenoftheMohammedanfaith.Usually,red,sometimeshasascarfdrapedarounditorcoveredwithaveil.LargerthanaFEZ.TASHASHIT(berber)SeeCHECHIA.THERESE(Late16c.)Largehoodofgauzeoveraframeofwireorwhalebone.AlsoCALASH.TIARA(teeara)Greekorigin,crown.Woman’scrown-likeheaddressofjewels.AlsoancientPersian,AssyrianheadcoveringTOONGABBIE(1960)Awashabletowelinghat,madofcottonterrycloth.TOPHAT-Wornforformaloccasionswithtailcoat.Tallcylindricalcrowninvariousheights.Late19c.,changedfrombeavertosilkhat.AlsoTOPPER,SILKER.TOPEE,TOPI-Hindu,hatworninIndiaandothertropicalcountriesasprotectionfromthesun.SeePITHHELMET.TOQUE(toke)smallbrimlesshatorcapfullcrownanddrapedofdecoratedwithpuffs,lace.Canbedecoratedwithfeathersorveiling.Formerlya16c.smallhat,fullcrown,feather.Someversionshaveasmallbrim.QueenMaryofEngland(20c.)favoredthisstyle.AttheinaugurationofPresidentReaganin1981,NancyReaganworeared,braidedtoquethatmatchedhercoat.TOREADORHAT-Bicorneshape,setcrosswiseonthehead.TRICORNE-Threecorneredhatwithupturnedwidebrim.AstheCavalierhatgrewlargerandthebrimbegantodroop,fashionledto"cocking"thebrimupononeside.Lasthalfof17c.,thehatwascockedonthreesides,thusbecomingtheTRICORNE.TRUNCATEDTIARA-AncientBabylonianandAssyrianhatofwoolorfeltwithshortlappets.TUDORBERET,RENAISSANCEBERET-From1539paintingofHenryVIIIportraitbyHolbein.Hatofvelvetwithjewelandfeather.TUQUE(tuke)Winterknittedhat,taperedandclosedatbothend.Wornwithoneendtuckedintotheother.SeenatCanadianwintersportingevents.TURBAN-AncientOrientalheaddress,consistingoflongpiecesofclothrolledandformedoveracap.Periodicallythefashionisrevivedinvariousforms,especiallywhenEuropeancultureisexposedtotheOrient.TheMoorsinSpain,thereturningCrusadersin11-13c.,thecaptureofConstantinoplein1453,allbroughtEasterninfluenceincostumeandhairstyles.TheNapoleniccampaigninEgyptbroughtthisinfluencetoEurope(Empirefashion)inearly19c.Theillustrationisofan1931FrenchturbanexecutedbyMr.Alexander.Early20c.,fashionwasinfluencedbyPaulPoiret’sfascinationwithcostumesandfabricsofEasternstyles.Throughoutthe20c.,variousstylesoftheturbanhavebeenpresented.TUTULUS-Etruscan(700-300B.C.)Braidedhairstyleofwomenevolvedintoconicalshapedcap,aswornbypeasantsandsoldiers.——此文章转载于互联网,文中观点与本网站无关,如有侵权请联系删除
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